When Joan called me to see if I would be interested in writing
for the newsletter about botanical extracts, I thought it was
a good idea. Then I had to figure out what to write about. Botanical
extracts are either the trendiest thing you can think of or the
most traditional thing there is depending on your point of view.
So, there are a couple of ways I could go here, but I think that
we ought to start with the way botanicals can be used in making
more interesting and complex flavors since we're all Flavor Chemists
here.
Most of us
have used some kind of botanical extract for flavoring before
we even knew there was an industry that made flavors. After all,
most people have a bottle of vanilla extract in their kitchen
cabinet or know someone who does. Lots of people who aren't trained
as flavor chemists can tell the difference between the natural
vanilla extracts and the artificial ones, too. And right there
is the point of using botanical extracts in your flavors instead
of using just the chemical components that might characterize
those extracts or flavors.
When I started
my training as a flavorist, there were not as many natural chemicals
available as there are now. And while having more of the chemicals
become available in increasingly pure forms improved our ability
to create realistic flavors, the complexity of a flavor is what
helps make it more heat or shelf stable.
Different
extraction processes give you different profiles of the same botanical
or spice. If that does not sound like it makes sense to you, then
go into your laboratory and taste the oil and an oleoresin or
tincture of the same item. So, if one form of a botanical or spice
extract is not quite right in your flavor, you may want to try
a different form if it is available.
There are
different flavor profile groups found in botanical extracts. If
you consider Quassia, Cinchona Bark and Gentian Root are all bitter
but taste different from each other. Damiana leaves and alfalfa
give body to fruit flavors and add freshness and greenness to
them. All of the barks have their own woody notes, but Mountain
Maple Bark and Wild Cherry Bark have a warmth and sweetness that
make them useful in cooked fruit or caramelized flavors. Oak chips
have an astringency that could fit in a nut flavor. Yerba Santa
is herbaceous and reduces bitterness or you could use St. John's
Bread to smooth out a flavor or enhance the vanilla or chocolate
notes of a product.
Think about
what you would use to make a berry flavor. You can obtain ketones
and ionones to make it a specific berry, and you can add green
notes like Cis-3-Hexenol to make it fresh tasting and more realistic.
But have you tried a botanical extract in it? Maybe try a woody
note to make it seedy or a bitter note to help make it fresh.
Something sweet could make it taste more cooked or round it out
and give it body.
There are
an amazing number of roots, barks, leaves and berries that are
already approved for food and flavor use. How many of them have
you tasted and used?